Module 1 - Chapter 9 Reverse Appliqué

Sampe A - Traditional Method

The inside of the tacking line was cut revealing the yellow fabric. The top layer becomes the background.
The outside of the tacking line was cut for the last two layers.
The finished sample looks like traditional appliqué.
Fabrics used: coton popline

Sample B - Contemporary Methods using machine stitching

The outside shape has been stitched first, the outside of this line was then cut. Thus the second layer becomes the background fabric.

In the following rows, the inside of the stitching lines was cut.

The little star in the middle reveals the last fabric layer.

Five fabric layers were used: commercial coton, sheer, silk pongé

Sample C - Contemporary methods using machine stitching

The same fabrics than in sample B were used.

The inside shape was stitched first and cut out at the inside of the stitching line. In the following rows, the outside was cut.

Starting at the inside causes the last fabric layer to become the background fabric.

The background fabric is a multi-coloured silk pongé. Using multi-coloured fabric could give interesting effects.

Sample D


I tried to combine the methods used in samples B and C in one sample by dividing a simple cross into five equally sized squares.

For the square in the middle, I started by cutting the different layers from the outside to the inside, the other squares were cut from the inside to the outside.

Strangely the middle square looks bigger than the others, although it has the same size.

The background fabric is a coton organza, the rest dyed coton popline.

Holding this sample against the light makes it look like a stained glass mosaic. This effect could be emphasized by using sheers in the last fabric layer.

Sample E

5 fabric layers were placed on top of each other. I used fabrics that fray easily, mostly linen and silk bourette. The fabrics were then slashed between the lines of stitching. Because I wanted more contrast I cut back the top layer at the outside of the stitching. Finally I used a little stitch to keep the inside slashing more open, I thought this added more interest to this sample.

Sample F

I divided the cross shape used previously in four sections. The top layer was cut away at the outside of the stitching.

Some layers only partially extended over the design. This made me a bit confused when cutting back the different layers. I probably should have used more contrasting colours instead of sheers.

Sample G

The same method than in sample B was used however with a different shape.

I also used one of the stamped fabrics for background and was amazed how good it looked.

Extra care has to be taken with this method when cutting back the fabric to avoid cutting into the layer underneath. I think it is also important to alternate contrasting colours for the different fabric layers.

Here I used the cut out shapes from sample G. Looks quite interesting to me.