Thursday, 4 January 2018

Module 5-Chapter 3 Texture and Relief in Paper

3a: I tried to reproduce the pine needle pattern of pic 1d by twisting fine tissue paper strips and olverlaying them randomly. As I had problems glueing them down, I use thin paper strips to keep them in place. This created a secondary pattern. This pattern could be achieved by coaching chunky threads (fabric or yarn)

3b: Inspired by the mountainbike tyre marks on forest ground. Twisted paper strips were bent to reproduce the marks in a regular linear pattern. To keep the shapes in place and to give it a different look, tissue paper was glued on top. The contours were outlined with a water-soluble pencil.

3c: not a very successful sample although I think that in fabric it would look muoch better. Inspired by pic 1f I wanted to render the impression of flat pieces of wood attached to a flat surface. I used calque paper for this as I thought it would be better to use a stiffer material. I partly pleated and unpleated the paper to increase the texture. I also tried to fold some squares with tissue paper and tried not to use too much glue.

3d: I tried to take advantage of the stretchy quality of the crêpe paper to reproduce the curved lines on picture 1q. The idea is to try to do the same with fabric cut on the bias.

3e: Here tissue paper is definitely the right choice to reproduce the horizontal lines in sample 1a. For extra texture I added twisted paper strips.

3f: The idea in this sample was to represent the round flat shapes of pic 1i. I first tried out a different technique. Pushing tissue paper through a wire grid to form little pockets, then ironing them flat before pulling them out carefully. so that they wouldn't loose their shape. Unfortunately this didn't work out as the paper tore easily and other paper would be too stiff. However, this is definitely something I will try out with fabric.
Here I cut it cardboard pieces, covered thim with tissue paper before glueing them down and covering the whole with crumpled tissue paper again. The spaces between the shapes could further be "embellished" with additional twisted lines of paper...
Another idea would be to apply Suffolk puffs with their opening sewn to the background

3g: a single fern leaf translated into paper by  using "fringed" triangles

3h: losange shapes were cut out of simple copy paper. The openings were filled with crumpled tissue paper

3i: the paper used here is tissue paper folded into squares and glued down so that they overlap

3j: my own version of the the seed head. This is not an exact representation but I wanted to render the airy impression of it. For this, little triangles of tissue paper were fringed and glued won in a circular movement.

3k: trying to reproduce the lichen on the tree bark was a bit of a challenge because of its fine, rich and irregular texture. So I stitched (without the thread in the needle)  the shapes below onto a double layer of tissue paper, then tore them out and stitched them very closely (2together) on black paper with a free-machine zigzag stitch.

3l: This sample was inspired by the enlarged seed of the fern leaves of pic 1x. The shape somehow reminded me of chinese fortune cookies. Here I used simple copy paper as tissue paper would not have been stiff enough

Working with paper certainly has its limits but gives an idea of what kind of fabric could be used to reproduce the textures. Even more textures could be used in the negative spaces

Sunday, 26 November 2017

Module 5-Chapter 2: Paper Relief Investigations

In this chapter we were supposed to fold, rip, scrunch.... various papers to see its effects.
I used Liquitex matte medium to glue the pieces to the  pieces to the black paper.

2a: copy paper folde, ripped

2b: a finer version of tissue paper, It's interesting to see the marks of the glue under the paper

2c: tracing paper, this paper is stiffer than the normal paper, the creases stand up because it was difficult to glue them "flatter"

2d: paper used in toilet to dry hands, I like the feathery effects the paper creates when ripped. It somehow reminds me of frost

2e: Japanese batik paper , when torn this paper creates fibrous edges

2f: another Japanese paper with incorporated leaves

2g. paper for pattern tracing
2h: crêpe paper

2i: packing brown paper, notice the pattern of the "stripes" in the paper

2j: scrunched copy paper
2k: scrunched tissue paper, the pattern in the creases is finer than in sample 2j where the paper is stiffer
2l: scrunched crêpe paper: this paper proved more diffidult to scrunch. Also I tried to take advantage of the quality of the paper and tried to give it a bend
2m: scrunched paper for pattern tracing.  The grid on the paper creates a secondary pattern
2n: paper for drying hands
2o: Japanese batik paper
2p: transparent fibrous paper

2q; kitchen roll paper
2r: packing paper

2s: very thick candy box lining paper

In general one can say here that the stiffer the paper, the coarser the scrunched surface and the higher the relief is. The paper holds its creases very well.
With lighter, tissue like paper the creases are much finer and could be more "controllable"

Manipulated tissue paper:

2*a: twisted tissue paper, looped before being glued down

2*b: twisted, knotted and spiralled

2*c: two strips of tissue paper were interlinked, then flattened before being glued down

2*d: another scrunched tissue paper sample where I tried to put more glue under the surfaces that weren't crumpled
2*e: another pleated kitchen paper sample, in the lower part I tried to rip the paper and overlaying the strips so that the edges would create an interesting surface

2*f: ripped tissue paper, loosely pleated

2*g: loosely pleated tissue paper, creating more organic shapes with tonal effects where the black background shines through
2*h: pleated vertically and horizontally

2*i: handpleated strips, curved

2*j: little paper triangles were gathered then glued
2*k: paper rectangles were gathered in the middle part and form little bows

2*l: a longer piece of paper gather with hand stitches, creating larger pleats
2*m: these two paper strips were not pleated when glued down, Instead a drinking straw was used to create a "resist" when glueing

2*n: scrunched tissue paper, parts of it was twisted to create little peaks stiffened with glue to make them stand (cf. shibori resist technique)

2*o: packing paper strips were folded in half, then ripped before being glued down
2*p: folded paper strips, cut/ripped before being glued down

2*q: copy paper was scrunched, flattened, gathered with hand stitches. I couldn't resist to rub the edges of this sample with a "Woody Stabilo", then water it  down to make the creases come out more clearly.

2*r: machine gathered tissue paper strip

 2*s: sorry there is a mistake in the denomination : overlaid torn tissue paper with fine holes

2*t: pleated tissue paper with holes