Sunday, 22 June 2014

Module 3 - Resolved Sample - Part 2

On Siân's advice I redid the whole resolved sample, by opting for another of my designs. 

I began by "dismantling" the buttons and took out the cardboard. This was a bit tricky as I wanted to keep the beads and the layers in place. I then did some other triangles. Machine-stitched cords were "glued" to a piece of  fabric and fixed by some stitching.All the triangles were fixed by a small zigzag stitch to the base fabric. 
Melted  pipe cleaners were wrapped and then applied between the larger triangles by beaded threads. I decided to enlarge the base fabric by applying the former base to a larger turquoise one.  Both layers were linked by further stitching. I also added some beads in the upper right and lower left corner.

I'm much happier with this sample. In fact it is much less static and translates the spiralling movement in a very pleasing way. 









Sunday, 4 May 2014

Module 3-Chapter 9 Resolved Sample Part 1


I started by experimenting by taking one of the waxed 3-D spiral and its picture which I turned into a black and white photocopy. I then overlaid it with some transparent paper onto which I transferred the lines. This sample got photocopied and reduced onto a transparency . I then cut out the shapes/lines to turn it into a stencil. For the following fabric samples I used the positive and negtive shapes of the stencil to spray or apply paint onto fabric. The sprays used where from Marabu and are especially designed for fabric

 9/1

9/2: stencils, small and big and cut out shape

 9/3: sprayed pattern onto paper

 9/4: sprayed and applied paint onto a light colored blue fabric 




9/5: paint applied onto an already painted fabric


9/6: same as above


9/7 : same as above

9/8: pattern sprayed onto blue fabric

 9/9: sprayed and painted onto blue nylon organza
 9/10: sprayed onto orange nylon organza

 9/11: "painted" transparency stencil: this picture itself is very interesting and could be developped into a design or copied onto fabric

Me, having fun in my kitchen (obviously not cooking)

Conclusion: The spiral used for this work is certainly not ideal for creating an appropriate design. However the idea of movement which it translates is something I will try to use in my sample. The fabric produced here is beautiful especially when overlying the organza on top of the coton fabric. This is difficult to photograph, but I can assure you that sense of depth created is beautiful.Also, the idea is to be able to burn away some of the organza to reveal the fabric underneath. 

Monday, 7 April 2014

Module 3 - Chapter 8 BEADS

I have started this lesson about 9 months ago when I was looking for some work I could do in front of the TV. During this time I collected beads in my colour scheme whenever I had the occasion. It's really amazing how many types of beads there are on the market. It was really fun to do this kind of work. I love the tactile quality of this type of embroidery.

Pic 1

Pic 2

Pic 3


Pic 4


Pic 5 : A sequin spiral made of blue and copper coloured sequins


Pic 6



Pic 7: On the left spirals made of copper wire were fixed to a blue fabric.


Pic 8


Pic 9


Pic 10


Pic 10a


Pic 11


Pic 12


Pic 13: No matter how hard I tried, I didn't succeed to turn this picture the right way


Pic 15: For this little piece I used self-made "pebbles" made of resin. I made moulds with real pebbles into which I poured the liquid resin. The pebbles were covered with a double layer of polyester organza which was then embroidered with cross stitches. Straight stitches kept the pebbles in place. The organza was burnt away with a heat gun, partly revealing them. Further French knots and beads were added.


Pic 16


 Pic 17: Self-made polymer clay beads coloured in blue


 Pic 18: Melted pipe cleaners cut into pieces and sewn to the fabric







Sunday, 30 March 2014

Module 3 - Chapter 7 - simple button toggles



The fabrics for the following beads were backed with bondaweb, before being cut, rolled around a wooden stick and ironed with a mini iron from Clover used for making bias strips. The diagrams next to the beads show how the fabric was cut,


Beads b



Beads d

Bead c

Beads e

 Beads f: ; different fabrics were inserted while rolling the beads and then cut into strips

 

Embroidered button toggles

Bead g and h: only one edge of the fabric was machine-embroidered with a zig zag stitch





Bead i: both sides were machine-embroidered with a decorative stitch


Bead j: the sides of this toggle were beaded, the felt was then rolled and further decorative with chain stitches


Thursday, 27 March 2014

Module 3 - Chapter 7 - Toggles with meltable materials - Part II


I tried out different meltable materials/fabrics to make these beads and started by "melting" the sides  to keep them from unrolling. Care has to be taken to not put too much pressure on the fabric as the tip of the soldering iron would melt a hole right through the layers.

Of course this work has to be done in a well ventilated area. The fumes can cause headaches and are certainly not very healthy 


Bead 1: I used some acrylic velvet for this one. However, the result is a bit disappointing, the dots can't be seen very clearly. This is certainly not my favourite fabric for this kind of exercise.
Bead 2: the fabric used here is a painted orange one.  The lines are very crisp and the fabric melted beautifully


Bead 3: The orange "fabric" is painted Tyvek and the blue wrap is made of Lutradur. Both materials produce very interesting effects


Bead 4 : layers of nylon organza were wrapped and held in place with a fine copper wire. The incised line can't be seen very clearly on this picture.

Bead 5 is made of acrylic felt. This material melts very well, the lines (in this case crosses) are not very clear. This might be because of the fact that the painting of the felt is irregular. To achieve a better result I will probably have to find another way of colouring it, maybe by using transfer dyes or bonding nylon organza to it.


Bead 6: The materials used here are blue Lutradur wrapped with orange Tyvek.

Bead 7 is made of painted Lutradur. 

I think that some of the beads could be rubbed with paint after the melting process. This would make the melted lines more obvious.